![]() ![]() This guide may be applicable to other chassis' but follow it at your own risk. In case it makes a difference, mine has a production date of 9/2009. This DIY is specific to the 128i automatic GA6L45R transmission. Work on your vehicle at your own risk and always consider safety first. If you twisted the transmission a lot, check your rear transmission mount, mine was completely separated and had pulled the torque mount bracket off the firewall from transmission movement.Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle or, any bodily harm or injuries as a result of following this guide. ![]() Rotate the engine to remove the bolts through the flex plate and then push the torque converter back into the transmission, then just make sure the studs on the engine do not get caught under the torque converter as you bring the engine out. I have never had to use the tool for the torque converter. The a/c compressor should be able to be left connected and charged, rotate it to where the battery is and put the power steering pump where the air filter box is, leave the hoses hooked up. These have so many bolts connecting them that the dowel pins are not as necessary, the older sunnies had 2 bolts at the top, 2 pins and the 2 studs at the bottom, that's it! There is usually a little mark left from the vice grips, but you can smooth it out by grinding off the high points and tapping it back into the holes. Tap the vice grips with a hammer to break the corrosion bond and you can work them out. Soak it really well, then vice grips and a doubled rag around the pin always worked. I have seen the dowel pins come out most of the times, sometimes staying in the transmission, sometimes coming with the engine. I have done many other Subaru engine installs and removals, my 98 outback had the engine out probably 6 times, the last time was the install of the engine I rebuilt for it. I had to replace the engine on our '06 when I got it, turned out #2 rod bearing cap was laying in the oil pan and was the main reason for the massive misfire and other internal carnage. Its a very cheap part, but no dealer has it in stock so wed was the soonest they said they could get me one, anyone ever successfully take one out without messing it up? I'm thinking torching the aluminum from around the steel pin if I have to, since we'll probably scrap/junk the old motor anyway.Īlso the air conditioner seems to have changed and has different looking ends on the compressor hoses, So I'll probably have to swap air conditioner compressors, or if I buy newer air conditioning cables will they still work on an older tribeca's firewall connectors? The main question I have and part I'm stuck at right now is the old engine came out with the dowel pins in the engine, but the "new"JDM engine has only one on one side, and is missing the other, it must have stayed with the transmission it was mounted to earlier. ![]() The transmission does seem to be a little "twisted" to one side, does anyone know if its possible to twist it too much or if something broke I should look for? ![]() So far so good, engine is out, learned a few lessons, like how to remove fuel connector without tools, and that the special tool that goes inside the starter hole before removal is pretty important (keeps the torque converter in the transmission - i thought it was simply to keep it from spinning for some stupid reason, found out why you put it in there the hard way. We bought what looks like a 2009 EZ30 JDM engine for $1100 cash "guaranteed to have less than 50k miles" Our 2006 Tribeca with 204k miles blew the headgasket. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |